MAF Connector Replacement
This photo shows the condition the wiring should be in when removed from the MAF connector. Specifically that the pins should be staggered when the seal is removed. The reason that is important is that it indicates you removed them starting from one side and worked your way across, which — as was mentioned in Step 2 — is the easiest way to get them out. It's also the best way to ensure you don't put undue pressure on any component and damage it, such as breaking a tab. At this point, if your rear seal is still good, clean the wiring, seal, and pins. The easiest way I've found to do this is to spray the wiring and seal with 2:1 GreaseMaster and work them with a toothbrush until they look clean. It's also a good idea to move the seal up and down on the harness, cleaning the wiring where the seal was positioned so that the wiring is thoroughly clean. Then I dip the wiring in a small container full of hot water. The heat helps both to more effectively remove the GreaseMaster and grease, as well as dry — to help prevent corroding. I then dry the wiring quickly and thoroughly with a paper towel. After the pins have air-dried completely, wrap a paper towel around the female pins, and spray them with CRC QD Electronic Cleaner. Use a toothpick to work the old dialectric compound and/or lithium grease (used to keep the connectors sealed) out of the pins. This will take the most time of the entire operation. When you think you've gotten it all out — which will take several applications of the cleaner and many passes with the toothpick — spray the terminals one more time and scrub them with the brush to make sure you've gotten the residue. Dry any remaining dampness and let them air dry — the electronic cleaner doesn't leave a residue and is formulated to air-dry "quickly." TIP: A paper towel works well under the harness to keep from spraying anything around it. Photo: Ryan King, 2008.
Replacement Procedure Image Gallery | Image 10 of 15